Always remember that we are here to help you! We take pride in unparalleled customer support and are happy to help you with any growing questions you might have. Just reach out!

If you need a quick answer, you may find it in our Frequently Asked Questions:

For professional growers, it is standard practice to dissolve entire 25-pound bags of HGV fertilizers into 10 gallons of water, forming highly concentrated stock solutions. Each HGV fertilizer (Base, Growth, and Flowering) should be dissolved into its own separate nutrient tank.

Once fully dissolved, these liquid concentrates or stock solutions can be used like any other liquid fertilizer: added to a reservoir or water storage tank. It is quite common to rely on fertilizer injectors to accurately dose the concentrated HGV fertilizer solutions into the drip irrigation system, simultaneously feeding water and nutrients to the crops. This is called fertigation.

Zero! The simple answer is none whatsoever. Plant fertilizers are made of plant essential nutrients, and HGV provides the precisely correct formula of essential nutrients when used as directed. Adding more fertilizer on top of what is provided will likely do more harm than good.

The starting formula is already optimal, so adding additional ingredients will only bring you further away from what is optimal. It really is that simple. Over the years, we’ve simply noticed no differences when adding expensive fertilizer supplements, except that our wallets got lighter.

We encourage our customers not to buy into hype products or gimmicky marketing. Plant nutrition can be boiled down to plant roots absorbing the correct quantities of dissolved mineral salts and living their best lives. Remember that sometimes less is more.

Yes, HGV fertilizers are compatible with all hydroponics, soilless, and potting mixes commonly sold in the market today. HGV nutrients have been extensively tested in coco coir, stone wool (rockwool), peat mixes, and hydroponic liquid cultured systems.

For growers growing in field soils, we recommend a soil test be conducted first. For questions, please contact our technical support teams.

In general, very hard or alkaline waters carry a high pH and contain high levels of calcium, magnesium, and sometimes chloride and sodium. We recommend conducting an irrigation water suitability test from a certified agricultural lab. Our technical team would be glad to go over the results with you and make any adjustments to the nutrient system if needed. In general, an acid will be required to neutralize excess alkalinity and lower the solution pH.

For growers using very soft or reverse osmosis (RO) water, irrigation solution pH and substrate pH becomes more difficult to control. This is because very soft waters lack natural water buffers that help regulate pH. This may require more careful monitoring overtime to avoid pH drift and possibly include adding bases to the nutrient solution to correct pH.

There is no expiration date for HGV water-soluble fertilizers! Once HGV fertilizers are made into liquid concentrates, they can last many months if properly stored and if the grower is using clean water and properly sanitizing all surfaces. Since the latter practices are harder to standardize, it’s generally best to plan to make enough liquid concentrate to last a month or two, then thoroughly clean out the liquid concentrate tanks and repeat.

Here are some general tips and tricks:

  • Start with hot water if possible. This will greatly speed up the dissolving process.
  • Remember that the fertilizer salts will increase the volume of the stock solution. If you need to make 25 gallons of concentrate, don’t use a 25-gallon reservoir, size up at least 5 gallons to be safe.
  • Use a light-tight reservoir or tank with a sealable lid. Keep in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight or extreme temperature fluctuations.
  • Use a powerful agitator like a paint mixer and drill.
  • Slowly add HGV fertilizers to the water tank while agitating.
  • Remember to never mix up different HGV fertilizers in the same concentrated stock tank. Each fertilizer (Base, Growth, Flowering) should have its own concentrated stock tank.
  • The fertilizers will be ready to use once they are clear and homogeneous and no undissolved bits of mineral salts are visible.
  • Seal the stock tanks and label and date each one.
  • There is no need to continuously agitate the fertilizers once they are mixed, but if the grower desires to do so use a paint stirrer or other method to stir the concentrate. Pumps and air stones are NOT recommended.

Maximum solubility refers to the highest mass of fertilizer that can be stably dissolved in each volume of water. Keep in mind that the maximum solubility changes based on temperature, the hotter the water the higher the solubility and vice versa. As the fertilizer dissolves, it will lower the temperature of the water which may make it difficult to fully dissolve if you are near maximum solubility rates. If you are using room temperature or colder water, reduce the amount of dry fertilizer per gallon.

HGV Base fertilizer has a maximum solubility of 3.0 Lbs./gallon.

HGV Grow and Bloom fertilizers have maximum solubilities of 2.5 Lbs./gallon

HGV fertilizers should be stored in a cool, dry place to avoid clumping or caking. It’s important to understand that dry water-soluble fertilizers are inherently hygroscopic, which means they will take up water over time. This is natural and unavoidable if given the right conditions. Therefore, extreme hot or cold and particularly high humidity should be avoided to keep HGV fertilizers flowable. HGV fertilizers are manufactured in a sealed, climate-controlled facility using the best equipment that avoids breaking up or shearing the fertilizer salts (which also leads to caking). However, once it leaves our factory, it’s difficult to guarantee the product will not cake if improperly stored. It’s therefore important to have a dedicated storage area that is climate controlled if our customers wish to avoid caking completely.

No, the product is completely fine to use and there will be no difference in performance. It’s important to understand that the chemical makeup of our fertilizers does not change based on if it has absorbed water, or the mineral salts have adhered to each other, forming clumps. Therefore, caked, or clumpy products are not defective, and will not perform differently. One difference is that the fertilizer(s) may have absorbed water if left in a hot, humid area. So the best practice would be to fully dissolve whole 25lb bags of clumpy product in water, to ensure all the fertilizer is used at once.

Clumped product should first be broken up into smaller chunks if necessary. Get some hot water ready. Begin by slowly adding the broken-up chunks of fertilizer to the hot water (the hotter the water, the faster the fertilizers will dissolve). Using a paint mixer head on a power drill or similar will make the dissolving process much faster. Continue to agitate until the fertilizer solution is homogeneous, and clear, and no undissolved bits of mineral salts remain.

Water! Ok, maybe a bit more than that, depending on the ingredients used by the manufacturer. For inorganic liquid nutrients using the same or similar ingredients as we do, then water is the biggest difference. Most companies are taking dry, raw ingredients and dissolving them in water along with some food coloring and bottling them. Depending on the ingredients used, the solubility is usually 2.5-3lbs per gallon. The rest of that gallon is water! One of our 25lb bags would end up in 8-10gallons of water and would weigh 65-85 pounds! imagine what that does to freight cost, not to mention storing all that water in containers in your valuable growing space.

Yes. I am all for anything that helps develop and keep roots as healthy as possible. One of the keys to yield and quality is a strong, healthy root system.

No. Our products contain all the calcium and magnesium needed to sustain healthy growth through all phases. Whether you use RO, well, or municipal water in your grow, you won’t need to worry about calcium or magnesium deficiencies if you are feeding correctly.

No. Our nutrients are formulated to supply everything the plants need from start to finish. Unlike most companies, we don’t leave ingredients out of our formulas and make you buy them as expensive “additives.” If you feel the need to keep using these type of products, please take the time to do a side-by-side test to see for yourself if there is any benefit. Also, be sure you take into consideration the additional nutritive value of the additive as it’s very easy to throw off the ratios between elements when you start adding components to an already complete formula. I have tested hundreds of “additives” over the years—if I found something that worked I would be incorporating it into our product. A proper environment and complete nutrient formula will give you far better results than trying to fix problems with some “magic additive.” If you are unsure as to what the effect might be of something you want to use with our nutrients, please email or call us so we can discuss it.

This is one of the most controversial topics these days and I could go on for hours about it. The important thing to realize is that every single nutrient line that is licensed and registered for sale in a state has gone through laboratory testing to be sure it meets federal standards for heavy metal content. This testing is public information and is available through your state’s department of agriculture. I encourage you to take the time and look up whatever line of nutrients you are using and see that they are compliant. Fancy marketing words like “pharmaceutical grade” or “technical grade” ingredients don’t make a difference in the end product in the numbers we are talking about here (parts per billion!). If you really want to be surprised, check out all of the “organic” nutrient lines. I think you might be shocked at the levels they contain. And no, there is no such thing as “organic lead” or “organic mercury.” Feel free to call or email me if you would like to talk about this subject more. I am never at a loss for words when it comes to this or any other topic about growing.

Simple! First you need to know the ratio the injector is set for, and second, the size of your stock tank. As an example, if your injector is set to 100:1, it simply means that 1 part of your stock tank will go into 100 equal parts of solution. Ounces, gallons, milliliters—it doesn’t matter because it’s a ratio. Let’s use gallons for this example, though. If you have a ratio of 1:100 then one gallon of stock solution will be diluted into 100 gallons of water. If your target EC is reached by dissolving 6 grams (example only, you might need more or less) of nutrient into one gallon of water then you would add 600 grams into a gallon of stock solution to reach the same EC. If your injector ratio is set to 200:1, then one gallon of stock solution would go into 200 gallons of water so you would add 1200 grams to 1 gallon of stock solution to reach the same EC as 600 grams in one gallon at 100:1.

It’s important to note that you have to have separate concentrate tanks for the base formula and the growth or flowering formula. They can not be mixed together in concentrated form!